Following up my Lightning Effect tutorial, today I have quick how-to on Purity Seals that is also really easy to do.
I did this tutorial using the same Grey Knight Purifiers that I’ve been painting up lately, as well. So I definitely wanted something quick and easy that could be repeated like 200 times.
After talking with Kenny from Next Level Painting I got a idea of something that looks good, and is fast.
Again, all you need is a fine detail brush, a few different paints, one Micron 000 paint pen, and a semi-steady hand.
Neatly coat the entire purity seal area with a white base-coat. Again I used Ceramite White, because it coats well over dark colors.
You can see I also painted the “book details” as well with this same method- minus the red seal on top!
I coated the seal area on top of the papers with white, so the final red color ends up brighter than if it was over the darker steel color.
“Dot” the top of the purity seal with Mephiston Red, taking care not to fill in any of the “Skull” stamped detail inside the seal itself.
Make sure you shake up your paint before you use it so you get a nice consistent coat for this step.
Oh and don’t forget the underside of the seal that’s touching the armor as well.
I hit the entire area with a “purity wash”, taking care not to get any on the flats of the armor. After the first wash dried I checked out all the work, and gave any areas that didn’t turn out well, a second wash.
For larger surface areas, this is a must regardless. Then let it dry, the wash shades the white amazingly well. No additional highlights are needed.
To make this awesome wash, I used equal parts of Devlin Mud, and Badab Black (now Agrax Earthshade, and Nuln Oil respectively), and mixed that with two parts of Gyphonne Sepia (now Sepherim Sepia).
You can darken the wash to taste, as I would recommend adding Devlin over the black.
I used a 000 Micron Art Pen to add details to the seal. It’s pretty much scribbling, but every now and then you have space for a capital letter that looks like the start of a paragraph.
On the backpack and shoulder tabards you have way more space to work, so make it look good! Just remember to give the pen enough time to dry before touching the lettering.
All that is left to do is, after matte coating the whole model, is to go back and give the purity seal a coat of gloss varnish. I haven’t finished this particular model yet, so I can’t show you that effect on this model.
But check the Draigo on the left that I’ve already glossed.
So that’s it. This is what I think is a quick and easy method for purity seals, armor tabards, and book details on Grey Knights. Which could come in handy if you are painting up say 40 Purifiers…. 😀
I finished up my final Purifier Test model last night (with a white helmet even) so it’s full speed ahead now on Project Purifiers!