If you’ve been wanting to get rid of your old or used models, here are tons of tips for how to sell your Warhammer miniatures for cash.
Sometimes you have to get rid of a little backlog or, as folks in the hobby call it, “a pile of shame.” When you’re looking to get rid of the backlog, here are some tips to make more money and get stuff out the door faster!
[ez-toc]
How to Sell Your Used Warhammer Miniatures & Make Some Cash
eBay is the flea market of the internet. It’s where you go for quick cash with hundreds of eyes seeing your listing at once. And even if your model is very nicely painted, chances are you won’t be making (or will come very close to) getting the money back that it cost to buy the kit on the shelf.
Before we go into the details of how to sell your items, there are some ground-level things we have to come to terms with.
You normally won’t be getting the same amount of money you put into your model unless the units are super in demand.
Now there are some exceptions, like when something is out of stock on Games Workshop’s website, or the unit is just seeing so much play the supply has dried up, etc…
Is eBay “Pro-Painted” actually Painted by a Pro?
In a lot of cases, even if you can paint fairly well and are trying to sell your miniatures for profit, it doesn’t make you a professional painter (unfortunately, we know). People will still lowball your price because, as we said, it’s the flea market of the internet…
So don’t get your feelings hurt if someone offers 20% below what it’s been listed or the item doesn’t sell for weeks.
What are the Fees For Selling on eBay?
eBay takes Around 15% of the Sale Price, so if you sell your mini for $50, eBay will automatically deduct $7.50 or so off of the money you’ll be putting back into your bank account.
It’s their cut for allowing you to use their website. This is just another expense you should consider when trying to figure out how much you want to list your item for.
Is Free Shipping The Best Option for Listing on eBay?
While eBay will tell you that Free Shipping is more enticing to the buyer, in reality, most people don’t mind spending $5 on shipping for in-demand items. Also, be careful if you are shipping large items like entire armies. The shipping cost can be driven up a ton depending on weight and package size.
Plus, between PayPal, listing fees on eBay itself, and any free shipping on the item the total off the top can be closer to 20%.
How Do You Take Better Pictures of Your Miniatures?
It’s best to wait until the morning and take pictures of your minis when the sun’s out, and take multiple photos up-close with multiple angles, as we show you here.
If you decide to list your eBay stuff at night and all you have is an overhead light in your bedroom, please don’t.
Now that we’ve covered some of the ins and outs of eBay that tend to get overlooked, it’s time to list our item! The most important part of every listing is the picture of the item!
If you’re an avid painter, chances are you have a hobby desk with good, bright light. This is even better but make sure that the light isn’t so harsh that when you snap a pic, it leaves a glare on the paint.
This will hide detail on the mini and turn off potential buyers. You have to walk a fine line between eliminating shadows and not obliterating the mini with so much light that you can’t see anything.
If you want to see how to take better pictures, check out this great post here.
You can get this cool mobile light that attaches to phones, for snapping pics of minis on Amazon.
Never Mislead Your Potential Buyers
After taking great pictures of your minis, next comes describing the entire product. Guys, DO NOT “overlook” any imperfections to your minis, and DO NOT “forget” to mention broken bits on the model. I
If you have an army with some battle damage and don’t take pics to show the condition or even write which units are worn in the description, you might sell your item(s); however, days later, you may find that eBay has stepped in from a buyer that opened a case against you.
And even if you set your account to No refunds, eBay will still force you to comply and return their money back in full. You’ll end back up right at square one and probably even more in the hole than before.
Also, remember that all of your sales and purchases open the window for people who do business with you. They can leave a review on your profile showing how good your business was. If people see that you have less than 90% positive feedback, they probably won’t want to run the risk of having a problem with you.
In short, it may seem like a lot goes into eBaying. But if you do things the right way, you won’t have as many problems. Plus, eBay practically holds your hand when it comes to listing an item.
6 Steps for Selling Old Miniatures Online
This is interesting in that used models, like anything else, tend to decrease in value at least until they are out of print, and then what are they worth?
Let’s break this down and cover some things to do if you find a box of old models from another lifetime.
Step 1: Identify the Models
This is especially important as many old Warhammer Fantasy models, for example, are no longer in production, and it can be hard to identify these models.
The first thing you can do is, if it is on a square base and you can safely take it out without damaging the base or model, try and do so. On the little tab that sometimes goes into the base slot, you can see a copyright year and a model name like orc or dwarf.
Once you do that, make note of the year and model and continue for the rest of the miniatures you have (that are metal).
Then it is time to dig up some old citadel catalogs that contain an assortment of miniatures for you to pursue through. These are broken down by season and year and basically showcase all the stuff Games Workshop had released or planned for that year.
A quick Google search will bring up a variety of websites, but here is one I used to identify a recent Orc and Goblin lot. Once you have all the metal ones identified, move on to the plastic ones.
These should be a bit easier as they are closer to the current date. Some of them are still in use but just rebranded under a different name (night goblins became grots, for example). Once you have your list, keep everything organized by putting them in different sandwich baggies, containers, etc., and label the bags/containers.
Step 2: Check for Missing Pieces
In this next step, take all the bits you probably have sitting around from this lot you found, were given, bought, etc., and start identifying where they go. I first start by separating metal from plastic, looking for missing heads, torsos, legs, etc., and putting them all together to get a complete body.
If you have some pieces you are unsure about, identify the missing models via the catalogs (or Google images if you can) and see if any of the bits match the parts you have. When you get complete matches, set them aside so they do not get mixed up again, and then put those complete sets into the bags/containers.
Once you have all the missing bits figured out, make sure you label the bag/container that has models that are missing parts as well.
Step 3: Start Looking at Prices
This is tricky because you want to maximize your return, but you cannot price yourself so high that nobody will buy. eBay, in general, is priced high because many people want to use the buy now option and be done with it aka, instant gratification.
You can certainly try that strategy against the other eBay sellers out there and wait for your miniatures to sell.
However, what I like to do is instead of listing on eBay (and having PayPal and eBay take a cut of my profits and being forced to wait on bidders), I look at the sold history over the past 3-6 months and take an average. Then I list it in the Facebook Marketplace in Age of Sigmar buy sell groups, Reddit, etc., for that price.
If it is not selling there, I will then list it through eBay, if I must, to move a model.
Step 4: Adjust your Expectations & Price Point
First off, you will probably not get the asking price you want for an out-of-print model unless you’re willing to sit on it. Generally, people on eBay, Reddit, and Facebook will want to buy it without paying eBay prices, so be prepared for counteroffers or lower offers.
Also, if your model is missing any bits, is damaged, etc., you need to adjust the price accordingly. I also offer another option to trade for models for existing armies and games that I am currently playing in case people do not want to pay cash.
The other thing to consider is offering a deal for people who want to buy multiple units in a single order; they kind of expect a better deal from you by buying more. You make more money and ship more products faster, and they get a lower price and more at once, so it is a win for both parties. I will knock off like 10 to 15 percent and combine shipping for those buyers.
Step 5: Understand Shipping and Fees
So as the seller, you oversee shipping any models purchased from you, and generally, the buyer expects those to be out the door within 3-5 business days. I like to use bubble envelopes that are cheaply made yet offer a decent amount of protection for what is inside.
For shipping in the states, expect 5-10 days, depending on the distance. If it is a larger order, use the “if it fits, it ships” boxes they offer for a flat rate shipping which I believe is currently $15 for a medium-sized box. Along with having the correct shipping cost ready to go, you also need to package them so they do not break in whatever you are shipping them in.
I like to use air bubbles or packing peanuts in larger boxes so they cannot move much. However, individually wrapping models in tissue or bubble wrap for the smaller orders is usually sufficient.
If you are shipping outside of the US, that is where it gets tricky, and before giving a buyer a price, I ask for the zip code. Then go to the USPS website to calculate costs because they can skyrocket fast. (I paid $13 to ship a 6 x 9-inch bubble wrap 3 oz package from Michigan to Canada recently).
Finally, understand your buyers do not know you and frankly do not 100% trust you, so they will want to get a guarantee. This is done through PayPal, the preferred payment method, but instead of friends and family who have no fee, they will select goods and services.
This fee is .30$ + 2.9% of the seller’s cost, but it makes the purchaser happy because PayPal guarantees their purchase.
Step 6: Be Prepared to Sit on Models That Do Not Move
So when you have all your stuff listed, and it is not moving, that can happen often, especially with out-of-print miniatures. Those kinds of models are being purchased for displays, conversions, or by collectors. These are not your run-of-the-mill gamer. Those people will pick up the kit via their FLGS or one of the many online retailers.
You are waiting for the right buyers to see your listings and be prepared to negotiate with them on price otherwise, you might be sitting on it longer (which you can do). If you want just to be done with it, I will offer it all in a lot with a solid markdown and you can get more interested parties.
Trying To Price Your Army/Models
As a general rule of thumb, if something isn’t New in Box (NIB) you can expect to take about 40-50% off retail value. Past that, other things that affect the price could be:
- How well the model is put together (Don’t leave any sprues or mold lines on the model as you first put it together).
- If there are any conversions
- If the model is primed properly (Don’t cake it on and make sure you use the right primer color).
- If the model is painted, and if so, what color scheme and how well? (Things painted off-color from the lore can drive down prices. For example, green Ultramarines).
Sure, it’s completely possible to get more for your army than what you put into it but generally, armies go for a few hundred dollars (minimum) under what the player bought everything for.
In & Outs of Selling online
Then comes the method that you’re going to be selling this army. There are a bunch of different community threads across websites where you can swap armies between people. However, the most official and (probably) the easiest way to sell the army is to throw it up on eBay.
eBay is a fantastic method of swapping out models for money. People are constantly scrolling through what’s listed under GW models worldwide. If reasonably priced, most would sell in a matter of days. Things that you need to remember, however, are that eBay takes 15% of whatever you make, and proper packaging is key.
Make sure that you don’t skimp on the packaging. Sacrifice the foam trays that you’ve been using with the army and make sure everything is padded. There’s nothing worse than selling an army and getting an email a few days later saying all the models are broken and then eBay stepping in to sort everything out.
Chances are you could be out all of the money you just made and now have a box of broken models being shipped back to you. Just ship it right the first time, and don’t cut corners.
Selling Models Locally
You can always sell your models locally, but it has some pros and cons, just like selling online. Sometimes people pay more to have the models immediately. Plus, you don’t have to worry about shipping/eBay taking 15% of your profit.
The only downside is that you’re cutting off the number of potential buyers by a huge margin. You’re not advertising it to the world. However, we all know other tabletop gamers who may be interested in taking it off your hands.
If you find that nobody is wanting to buy it, try selling it at your local hobby shop. Chances are you won’t get cash for it; if you do, it’ll be much lower than what you expect. However, you can always use the store credit option to buy more models through the shop.
If you live in a big city, you can also try your hand at a local flea market. Heavily populated areas are surprisingly full of gamers. Just be prepared to get a few weird looks while standing next to a table full of Tyranids.
Conversely, sometimes local gaming stores have a garage sale/swap meet or flea market days of their own. You can bring your models in and sell them through the store for credit to use on new models there. Pricing can vary, but overall it tends to go for much more reduced pricing than the other options presented here.
Do What You’re Comfortable With
Tying it all together, when it comes time to sell your army, use whichever method you’re most comfortable with.
Be prepared to lose out on some money in whatever way you choose to sell (that’s how business goes). On top of that, if you sell online, ensure you take care of your packaging and ship everything on time.
Calculate how much money you want to make and add 15-20% for eBay’s cut and shipping charges. If you know someone looking for an army locally, go to them first. You may be able to get more money for your models.
However, remember that your local market is much, much smaller.
Have you sold any of your miniatures online yet?
Let us know in the comments of our Facebook Hobby Group and our Discord server. Make sure you enter the latest monthly giveaway for FREE today!
Click Here To Follow Us On Google News
Get ad-free access to our hobby videos and a monthly drop of miniatures. Plus, support some of the best creators out there for as little as $6 a month on Patreon!
Click Here For All the Hobby Products & Tools We Swear By
About the Author: Rob Baer
Rob Baer
Job Title: Managing Editor
Founded Spikey Bits in 2009
Socials: Rob Baer on Facebook and @catdaddymbg on X
About Rob Baer: Founder, Publisher, & Managing Editor of Spikey Bits, the leading tabletop gaming news website focused on the hobby side of wargaming and miniatures.
Rob also co-founded and currently hosts the Long War Podcast, which has over 350 episodes and focuses on tabletop miniatures gaming, specializing in Warhammer 40k. and spent five years writing for Bell of Lost Souls. Every year, along with his co-hosts, he helps host the Long War 40k Doubles Tournament at Adepticon and the Las Vegas Open, which attracts over 350 players from around the world.
Rob has won many Warhammer 40k Tournaments over the years, including multiple first-place finishes in Warhammer 40k Grand Tournaments over the years and even winning 1st place at the Adepticon 40k Team Tournament.
With over 30 years of experience in retail and distribution, Rob knows all the products and exactly which ones are the best. As a member of GAMA (Game Manufacturers Association), he advocates for gaming stores and manufacturers in these difficult times, always looking for the next big thing to feature for the miniatures hobby, helping everyone to provide the value consumers want.
While he’s played every edition of Warhammer 40k and Warhammer Fantasy (since 5th Edition) and has been hobbying on miniatures since the 1980s, Titans of all sizes will always be his favorite! It’s even rumored that his hobby vault rivals the Solemnance Galleries, containing rulebooks filled with lore from editions long past, ancient packs of black-bordered Magic Cards, and models made of both pewter and resin.
