What’s up hobby maniacs, it’s hobby HUMP day, the literal SECOND best day of the week. Today, we’re going show you how to put together and magnetize the Leviathan Dreadnought.
It’s a bit tricky, but the shoulders come with the model, and the arms then magnetize into it. So, if you build the body first and then add in some weapons, you can add as you go. I’m digging the different poses on the back of the instructions pdf and there’s a lot of different ways to put this guy together which I think is really great. It won’t see a lot of use in Competitive 40k but it’s a really sweet model so lets’ jump right into it.
Step 1. Grab your Instructions. There’s a couple of gotcha’s for sure. The yellow is where you mate pats, the green is the active part and the blue are the options. Red are gates to remove otherwise it won’t fit properly.
Pro-Tip: This kit was covered in resin release, I don’t normally wash before but it wasn’t holding together as well as I’d like, and that’s because of all that resin release residue. So, I started scoring the parts because I didn’t want to have to wash all the parts. This gives the glue some extra surface area to attach too. It also gives some extra space to swell up.
Step 2. Start putting together the chassis. It’s pretty straight forward.
Step 3. Once you got it going dry fit your guns into those sockets; I do this a lot to avoid the “gotcha” situations. I don’t show you how to magnetize these bits because I figured most people would just glue them in and say they’re whatever. Personally, I’m not sure if I’m making Blood Angels or Iron Warriors.
Step 4. Assemble the legs. You can see it comes with feet, shin, and leg bits that all slot in pretty nice and have great range of motion. I’d recommend putting them together and seeing how they fit.
Step 5. The groin/hip region gives you even more flexibility. The right leg in my set up is going to be pressed down with my ring finger as I’m gluing the rest of it just to give it that extra support.
You can see I got it some nice cantering going on. I don’t glue the knee pad on because I’m going to air brush it.
Step 6: Dry fit the torso to the legs. This is a very tall model and I feel that the torso needs to be pointed down. I dry fitted the bit that slots between the upper torso and the hips before gluing it down.
Pro-Tip: Use the dull edge of the exacto knife and scrape along the nozzle so it gets all that glue off and doesn’t cut into your nozzle. If you need to cut a bit off the top just to add some free flow.
Step 7: For the weapons, I’m adding some metal plates instead of magnets because looking at the weapons there’s not much space for the magnets plus then you’re dealing with all the polarity options and that gets a bit annoying.
Step 8: Cut off a bit of the arm section to free up some space to place the metal on.
Step 9: I’m using metal sheet from a latex paint roller tray I cut up: marked it, cut it, scored it and then glued it into the bit.
Pro-Warning: this metal will cut you. Literally, cut you. Be careful.
Step 10: Drill out the connecting arm bit.
Pro-Warning: go SUPER slow, no need to rush it. This is a small bit.
Step 11: I drilled off the side support, so I had to use the putty to fill it in. I love this stuff, it’s way better than liquid.
Step 12: I used a ¼” dowel because I was afraid a magnet would shred the torso area.
I left the head pieces off because I’ll glue those on later after I’ve airbrushed it all.
Click the video if you want the full blow by blow of how to put this bad boy together:
Leviathan Dreadnought Tutorial Assembly Forge World
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About the Author: Rob Baer
Rob Baer
Job Title: Managing Editor
Founded Spikey Bits in 2009
Socials: Rob Baer on Facebook and @catdaddymbg on X
About Rob Baer: Founder, Publisher, & Managing Editor of Spikey Bits, the leading tabletop gaming news website focused on the hobby side of wargaming and miniatures.
Rob also co-founded and currently hosts the Long War Podcast, which has over 350 episodes and focuses on tabletop miniatures gaming, specializing in Warhammer 40k. and spent six years writing for Bell of Lost Souls.
Every year, along with his co-hosts, he helps host the Long War 40k Doubles Tournament at Adepticon and the Long War 40k Doubles at Las Vegas Open, which attracts over 350 players from around the world.
Rob has won many Warhammer 40k Tournaments over the years, including multiple first-place finishes in Warhammer 40k Grand Tournaments over the years and even winning 1st place at the Adepticon 40k Team Tournament.
With over 30 years of experience in retail and distribution, Rob knows all the products and exactly which ones are the best. As a member of GAMA (Game Manufacturers Association), he advocates for gaming stores and manufacturers in these difficult times, always looking for the next big thing to feature for the miniatures hobby, helping everyone to provide the value consumers want.
While he’s played every edition of Warhammer 40k and Warhammer Fantasy (since 5th Edition) and has been hobbying on miniatures since the 1980s, Titans of all sizes will always be his favorite! It’s even rumored that his hobby vault rivals the Solemnance Galleries, containing rulebooks filled with lore from editions long past, ancient packs of black-bordered Magic Cards, and models made of both pewter and resin.
