Welcome back Hobby Maniac’s today we’re bringing you a hot and fresh project set up. Come see how to prime you models the right way, ‘ere time!
Today, we’re going to break down some hobby basics on how to prime your models right proper.
I like use basic rattle cans whenever I can. Testors Model Master Series works really well in most conditions even if it’s a bit humid out because of it’s chemical composition. Testors is the truth you hear it here first.
You’re also going to need a basic latex paint can mixer stick, which you can grab at any hobby store, and some double sided tape. This method is going to help us set up, put it down, and then pick it back up in in a few hours or a few weeks.
Step 1. Grab your Scotch Double sided stick tape and your Xacto knife. You can cut it length wise to double up the amount available, you don’t need the full width. Then you’ll slice it horizontally and tape your models to your paint mixers.
Step 2. Rattle Can Action. For this project, because it’s Necrons I’m not going to push this metallic through my air brush, I’m just going to use Testors Model Master’s Metallic. It’s great because it’s a lacquer and you can use it in almost any humidity level.
Step 2.1 Shake it up, feel the ball in the can and make sure you’re getting it up and down throughout the can.
Step 3. You’ll notice these guys are flat, we’re going to lay them flat while we hold the paint tray on our other hand. They’re side ways because we don’t want to miss the bottom.
Clutch Technique: slowly rotate the board (like spinning a basketball) while your spray so that you get all the nooks and crannies.
Pro-Tip: Don’t just pray and spray, use tight controlled bursts while you’re moving in tight, short, lines.
Step 4. Wash, Rinse, Repeat for all the other models you have.
Step 5. Flip the models that were on their sides and then get the other side.
Decision Time
If you’re using a paint brush I’d recommend just a bit more paint on them by standing them up to get any last spots you may have missed.
If you’re going to be using an airbrush I’d leave it as is because I know I’m going to be putting on a lot more thin coats of paint and I don’t want to over do it with this base.
Step 6. The Project box is a clutch piece of tech, I line mine with bubble wrap so I don’t chip any paint on the rough cardboard.
To get the full hobby story I’d recommend you hit play on the video below!
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About the Author: Rob Baer
Rob Baer
Job Title: Managing Editor
Founded Spikey Bits in 2009
Socials: Rob Baer on Facebook and @catdaddymbg on X
About Rob Baer: Founder, Publisher, & Managing Editor of Spikey Bits, the leading tabletop gaming news website focused on the hobby side of wargaming and miniatures.
Rob also co-founded and currently hosts the Long War Podcast, which has over 350 episodes and focuses on tabletop miniatures gaming, specializing in Warhammer 40k. and spent six years writing for Bell of Lost Souls.
Every year, along with his co-hosts, he helps host the Long War 40k Doubles Tournament at Adepticon and the Long War 40k Doubles at Las Vegas Open, which attracts over 350 players from around the world.
Rob has won many Warhammer 40k Tournaments over the years, including multiple first-place finishes in Warhammer 40k Grand Tournaments over the years and even winning 1st place at the Adepticon 40k Team Tournament.
With over 30 years of experience in retail and distribution, Rob knows all the products and exactly which ones are the best. As a member of GAMA (Game Manufacturers Association), he advocates for gaming stores and manufacturers in these difficult times, always looking for the next big thing to feature for the miniatures hobby, helping everyone to provide the value consumers want.
While he’s played every edition of Warhammer 40k and Warhammer Fantasy (since 5th Edition) and has been hobbying on miniatures since the 1980s, Titans of all sizes will always be his favorite! It’s even rumored that his hobby vault rivals the Solemnance Galleries, containing rulebooks filled with lore from editions long past, ancient packs of black-bordered Magic Cards, and models made of both pewter and resin.
