Col Festus is here, and this time he’s showing us how to paint Ossiarch Bonereaper Necropolis Stalker in his latest painting tutorial!
Col Festus has some unique hobby content, and if you need some sweet painting tips, you should follow him to get up on all your painting and conversion techniques! He also paints up a ton of Makers Cult files, which are always fantastic, and you can score yours here!
This time, he shows how to paint up an Ossiarch Bonereaper Necropolis Stalker. Let’s see how to do it!
How To Paint an Ossiarch Bonereaper Necropolis Stalker: Painting Tutorial
He starts by hitting it with a black primer and then does a zenithal highlight with white. He uses AK primers, but any brand should work pretty well here. Just keep in mind he does use a few mixtures of paints in a couple of spots, so check those out below, as they are pretty crucial:
Special Sauce Black Wash Recipe
- 25 Drops Monument Hobbies Glaze Medium
- 5 Drops Liquitex Flow Improver
- 1 Drop Liquitex Raw Umber Ink
- 1 Drop Liquitex Carbon Black Ink
Special Sauce Brown Wash Recipe
- 25 Drops Monument Hobbies Glaze Medium
- 5 Drops Liquitex Flow Improver
- 1 Drop Liquitex Carbon Black Ink
Now, let’s get into the true painting steps!
Step 1:
He starts by using the Special Sauce Black Wash Recipe and hits everything but the cape with it. This will really bring out the details and shade the recesses. Next up, he just blocks in all the armor with black and paints the cloak with Luxion Purple.
For the blades, he base coats them with Army Painter Absolution Green; this is a speed paint, so just be careful with too much pooling. Next up is the base, and he does a simple coat with Dark Wood. With the Zenithal Highlight and the washes, you already have all your base coats done, and the model looks decent already! Before you move on, he matte varnishes his models at this stage as he feels it helps keep the washes intact.
Step 2:
Now it’s time to start highlighting. First, he uses 3rd Gen Blue Violet and highlights all the raised areas of the cloak. To highlight the blades, he mixes white ink and fills in all the little runes on the blade.
Next, for the blades, he loads Liquitex Fluorescent Green Ink into the airbrush, mainly hitting the runes and over the blades where he feels it works the best. He also hits the gems and such with it.
If you have any overspray, be sure to go back and touch it up.
Step 3:
He returns to the paintbrush and hits all the green areas he couldn’t hit with the airbrush with the Fluorescent Green Ink. To finish off the runes on the blade, he goes back to the white and makes them pop. Now it’s time to do some more work on the base.
He starts with Intermediate Blue and picks out all the details, such as the rocks. He goes back to the Special Sauce wash from before and hits all the rocks with that.
Step 4:
For the final steps on the armor, he takes the Vallejo Model Air Metallic Steel, highlights all the surfaces, and chips up the armor using this as well.
To finish the whole thing, he hits it with a gloss varnish to seal all the paint and puts some grass on the base.
Finished Model:
There you have it, a great-looking model that really didn’t take long at all!
Be sure to check out the video below for all the tips!
Follow Col Festus on YouTube Here!
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About the Author: Travis Pasch
Travis Pasch
Job Title: Head Writer & Editor
Socials: @paschbass
About Travis Pasch: Travis has been a Warhammer 40k hobbyist since the 1990s, playing the game since Third Edition. Through extensive traveling, he’s seen a lot of the miniatures hobby from across the world, giving him a unique perspective on the latest gaming topics and trends.
Travis’s brother even owns a commission painting studio, where he’s picked up a lot of good advice and techniques for painting Warhammer and tabletop miniatures over the years, as well. Travis joined the Spikey Bits team in 2019 and has been the lead writer since 2020.
Currently, he’s working on converting all his 40k Adeptus Mechanicus models and becoming a true tech enjoyer, complete with both sad and happy robot noises!
