Space Marine Centurions are all the rage right now, especially for the Imperial Fists. Don’t miss how to get a sweet yellow paint job on your new models.
Wyatt from Jack of Clubs Painting is bringing us another tutorial video. This time he is walking us through his way of painting his own Imperial Fists.
He starts off with a brown primer from Stynylrez, nothing too special here.
First color he uses is some Proacyril Burnt Orange and some new Army Painter Airbrush Medium to get a good base coat.
Next, he uses a mix of Proacyril’s Ancient Orange and Golden Yellow and goes over the whole model, making sure to leave the orange in the deep recesses. He then follows up with Bright Ivory and Golden Yellow in a 2-1 Ratio in favor of yellow. This is an extremely bright yellow highlight to compensate for our dark washes later that will bring it back down to normal colors.
He tackles the metals next with a 50-50 mix of Dark Silver and Silver and just applies it to every part of the model we want to be that steel color. He also uses the silver by itself on all the insignia and details on the armor.
Next up he uses Olive Flesh on the eagle on his chest and all the purity seals. He also takes bronze to add in detail to some of the metallics we already painted. During this step he also does the trim with Coal Black. He also takes some Purple and uses it for the wax on the purity seals.
For the washes, he uses the oil-based Mr.Weathering Multiblack and Brown. First, he covers the model in a coat of Mr.Weathering Solvent, followed by the brown wash. Then he slowly adds the solvent back on top to dilute it and brighten it up a bit. He then goes over the metallics with the Multiblack wash and cleans it up with the solvent again.
He then does some edge highlights on the model. Starting with Olive Flesh on the seals and the eagle then, using Purple on the wax. He uses Dark Warm Gray on the black trim. Using the same Yellow and Ivory mix from the airbrush step, we can also edge highlight the highest point of the yellow armor. After he also thins that paint down a little and does some scratch marks on the big areas of the larger plates.
Next, he takes some Vallejo Fluorescent red and uses it on the eye lenses. He also takes some thin black in the airbrush and adds it little by little anywhere where carbon would build-up, like exhausts and muzzles.
And with that, the model is complete!
Follow along with the latest from Jack of Clubs on YouTube below or LIVE on Twitch four nights a week!
This post contains affiliate links, as an Amazon Associate Spikey Bits earn from qualifying purchases.
About the Author: Andrew Schrank
Andrew Schrank
Job Title: Miniatures & Warhammer Hobby Staff Writer
Socials: Facebook
About Andrew Schrank: Over the past 15 years, Andrew has played all the games, including tabletop and video games, and immersed himself in the associated lore. Andrew joined the Spikey Bits team in 2018 and covers the Warhammer hobby and tournament scene, along with the latest in tabletop miniatures, each week.
Aspiring diplomat, Lord of Fluff, and Master of Ice Hammer, He loves Star Wars, Chaos Undivided, and Gundam. During his free time, he hunts Platinum trophies on PS5 and reads international news. On weekends, Andrew plays commander and cEDH games, often with unique strategies that push the limits.
He believes each day presents a new opportunity to grow and be challenged.
